Today, with the rapid development of science and technology and rapid changes, we are used to shopping on the Internet. We choose a wide range of clothes at home, whether coarse linen, cotton, silk, satin, suit or cowboy. We have more diversified choices and pursuit of higher quality. In Zhu Zi's family motto, "one rice and one porridge should be thought. It's not easy to come and go, and it's difficult to keep thinking. Now we live a rich life, which is the mark and achievement of our predecessors' step-by-step exploration.
Sewing machine is an indispensable equipment in the garment industry. From the previous manual to today's electrical and intelligent, the sewing machine has experienced many changes. Today, we will take you into the Grand Canal Hanlin folk custom museum to appreciate the arduous development process of the sewing industry and feel the different sewing machine culture.
The history of sewing machine can be traced back to Huang Daopo's loom in the late Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty, which can be called "the prototype of sewing machine"; After the industrial revolution in the mid-18th century, textile technology began to move forward to industrial sewing technology. People all over the world explored sewing technology in liberating productive forces.
◆ in 1790, Thomas Santer, a British carpenter, first invented the world's first single chain stitch hand sewing machine for drilling holes first, threading later and sewing leather shoes.
◆ in 1841, French tailor B. timonier invented and manufactured the chain stitch sewing machine with needle and hook.
◆ in 1846, Elias Howe also independently invented the sewing machine.
◆ in 1851, i.m. Shengjia, an american mechanic, invented the lock stitch sewing machine and established Shengjia company.
It can be seen that mechanical sewing machines have appeared in this period, but the sewing machines invented by these people are basically hand-operated.
In 1869, Li Hongzhang, a representative of the Westernization Movement, visited Britain. When he returned home, he brought back a gold-plated Shengjia sewing machine as a gift to Empress Dowager Cixi. At that time, the British media also reported the matter. Around 1880, Shengjia company established Shanghai Feng company in Nanjing Road, Shanghai (now No. 446 Nanjing East Road). In order to promote products, Shengjia company hired Chinese women workers at a higher salary. After training, they were asked to take sewing machines to perform along the street and introduce the operation methods of sewing machines to the public. Soon, Shengjia sewing machines became well-known advanced garment making machines in Shanghai. For a long time, Shengjia has almost become synonymous with sewing machine. It is also one of the western industrial products that entered China earlier.
In China, the earliest sewing machines were called "iron cart", "foreign machine", "needle cart" and so on. The first generation of sewing machines are very high-end in China, and the number is rare. They are used by tailors in big cities to make clothes for rich ladies, and most people can't afford to use them. It is said that the last emperor Puyi once gave the queen Wanrong a Shengjia sewing machine. It can be seen that it was still a rare thing in China at that time.
[S] mid-18th ~ mid-19th century
[purpose] sewing clothes and cloth products
[collection] it is now stored in the Grand Canal Hanlin folk custom museum
Sewing machine is generally composed of head, base, transmission and accessories. The machine head is the main part of the sewing machine. It is composed of four mechanisms: pricking, thread hook, thread take-up and feeding, as well as auxiliary mechanisms such as winding, pressing and tooth dropping. These mechanisms in sewing machines are the most commonly used basic structures (connecting rod structure, cam structure, gear structure, belt transmission mechanism, intermittent motion mechanism, etc.) combined in series, parallel, timing, etc.
The history of the hand-operated sewing machine lasted until 1859. Shengjia company took the lead in inventing the pedal sewing machine. Since then, the hand-operated sewing machine has withdrawn from the historical stage. In 1889, after Thomas Edison invented the motor, they invented the motor-driven sewing machine, which opened a new era in the sewing machine industry. For a long time, Shengjia basically monopolized the production of sewing machines all over the world.
The sewing machine industry has experienced the transfer from Europe and the United States to Japan, South Korea, Taiwan and Singapore, and has been fully transferred to China since the early 1990s. With the increasing competition in the sewing machinery manufacturing industry, M & A integration and capital operation among large sewing machinery manufacturing enterprises are becoming more and more frequent. Domestic excellent sewing machinery manufacturing enterprises pay more and more attention to the research on the industry market, especially the in-depth research on the industrial development environment and product buyers. Because of this, a large number of excellent domestic sewing machinery brands have risen rapidly and gradually become leaders in the sewing machinery manufacturing industry.
◆ in 1905, Shanghai first started manufacturing sewing machine parts and set up some small workshops for spare parts production.
◆ in 1928, the first 44-13 industrial sewing machine was produced by Shanghai Xiechang sewing machine factory. In the same year, Shanghai shengmei sewing machine factory also produced the first household sewing machine.
◆ in the 1970s, the popular brands of sewing machines produced in China were the "worker peasant" brand and the "forward" brand. Up to now, the "worker peasant" brand is the most excellent and properly made in China.
◆ in the 1980s, there was a "bee" brand sewing machine, which was produced by Shanghai manufacturers.
On the whole, the second-generation pedal sewing machine is improved compared with the first generation. Basically, the wooden table carries the sewing device, uses the pedal to drive the pulley, and uses hemp rope to drive the gear, which is much faster than the first generation hand-operated sewing machine. China began to flourish in the 1940s and 1950s, and the working class has the purchasing power.
Second generation pedal board sewing machine
[S] the middle of the 19th century to the end of the 20th century
[principle] sewing principle of sewing machine: coil sewing
[collection] it is now stored in the Grand Canal Hanlin folk custom museum
The sewing machine base is divided into two forms: platen and chassis. The platen of the platen base supports the machine head and is used as a workbench during sewing operation. The chassis of the chassis base plays the role of supporting and storing the machine head, making the sewing machine easy to carry and keep.
And principle of sewing machine:
The simplest coil suture is chain suture. The sewing machine loops with thread of the same length at the back of the line. The fabric is located on a metal plate under the needle and fixed with a presser foot. At the beginning of each sewing, the needle pulls a coil through the fabric. A coil making device grabs the coil before the needle is pulled out, and the device moves synchronously with the needle. Once the needle pulls out the fabric, the feed tooth device (described later) will pull the fabric forward. When the needle passes through the fabric again, the new coil will pass directly through the middle of the previous coil. The coil making device grabs the wire again and makes a coil around the next coil. In this way, each coil will hold the next coil in place.
In the 1970s, the German Baifu company invented the computer flat sewing machine, and the sales volume was extremely small.
In 1986, China's "standard" brand computer flat sewing machine came out. However, due to its high price, it has not developed greatly for more than 20 years.
In 2003, "founder" computer flat sewing machine was born, and domestic computer flat sewing machine entered a period of rapid growth.
From the late 1990s to 2007, China's sewing machinery industry has been in the development stage of rapid growth. The output of domestic sewing machinery products has reached an unprecedented industry "peak" by 2007. At the beginning of the 21st century, more than 70% of the world's sewing machine output has been in China. After 10 years of development, China's sewing machinery industry has risen rapidly after arduous development, established the status of a world sewing machinery power in one fell swoop, and is moving forward from a sewing machinery manufacturing power to a power.
Generally speaking, the so-called computer-controlled sewing machine is a computer sewing machine. With the continuous adjustment of the market and consumption structure, medium and low-speed industrial sewing machines can no longer meet the production demand. Sewing machines are developing in the direction of high-speed and serialization. Electronic and computer technologies are widely used in sewing machines. Computer controlled sewing machine can not only realize intelligent control, greatly improve production efficiency and reduce operation difficulty, but also mechanically complete some operations of operators, which is convenient for digital management of enterprises.
Computer controlled sewing machine is controlled by microcomputer and can automatically complete the set sewing work. Such as automatic edge sewing, automatic adjustment of sewing tension of thick and thin sewing materials, automatic speed change, automatic torque change, automatic thread cutting, automatic needle patching, etc.
Today's sewing machines have various types and complete functions. Whether they are large mechanized sewing machines or small household sewing machines, different designs meet higher sewing requirements. We can wear more beautiful and comfortable clothes, and the key to the R & D of sewing machine lies in the mastery of core technology and the improvement of innovation ability, which is the main direction for us to overcome difficulties in the sewing machine industry.
From hand to thimble, from thimble to sewing machine, are technological progress again and again, and are the crystallization of labor wisdom.
