For friends who are engaged in fabric procurement, fabric matching or clothing design, understanding the warp and weft density of woven fabrics is very helpful for you to choose fabrics.
Changes in warp and weft density, yarn count thickness, and organization have important effects on fabric style. With the same warp and weft yarn count and organization structure, the fabric styles with different warp and weft densities are very different. For example, poplin and plain fabrics are plain weaves. The ratio of poplin's warp density to weft density is 1.8 to 2.2: 1. The warp density is significantly greater than the weft density. The surface of the fabric is formed with rhombus grains composed of raised parts of the warp yarns. Good, rich in feel and vision, clean and flat on the cloth, fine texture, full grain, full luster, soft and smooth, soft and waxy, but the same yarn count (closer warp and weft density) has no such effect, Feeling is more simple. In addition, we analyze the warp and weft density of the fabric, which can be used to calculate its weight, and we can understand whether the fabric has cut corners.
So how do we get a fabric to accurately and quickly read its warp and weft density? Some friends may be using a convex lens density analyzer. This tool is time-consuming and difficult for people with poor eyesight, although some convex lenses are equipped with a light source to help count
For those of us who deal with woven fabrics all day long, the analysis of warp and weft is not necessary, because it is too time-consuming and difficult to quickly and accurately analyze the sample given to us by customers. Generally, when we go to the customer, the customer must give us a piece of fabric to analyze the warp and weft density and structure immediately in order to respond quickly. The tool we use is a density mirror, which can help us read out the warp and weft density of the woven fabric in 5 seconds.
A series of numbers are listed above and below the density mirror. The numbers above represent the number of lines per centimeter, and the numbers below the number of lines per inch. When reading, you can read the upper and lower numbers, but the units are different. When choosing a density mirror, you need to pay attention to the density range of the fabric that is usually analyzed. The density mirror shown in the figure has a reading range of 45-160 bars / inch. However, it is generally difficult to read near 45 or 160, so this density mirror is suitable for reading range of 46-150 per inch. As for why, I will come back to analyze later.
Now let ’s talk about how to use this density mirror. It's actually very simple. When you want to read the zonal density, you place the density mirror on the fabric along the zonal direction, and you will find a diamond on the density mirror. The diamond tip refers to the zonal density, and the upper tip is the number per centimeter. The lower tip is the number of bars per inch. The conversion results of these two units are the same
